Nagpur: A statement by FDA chief Tukaram Mundhe has triggered fresh discussion around the city’s Saoji cuisine, celebrated for its searing spice, signature film of oil, and rich, dark gravy.Saoji is not just a style of cooking but carries a link to Nagpur’s industrial and labour history, celebrity chef Vishnu Manohar said. Vidarbha’s cotton belt once had a network of textile mills in Nagpur, and workers from the Koshti community migrated from Multai, Betul and Chhindwara in Madhya Pradesh to work in these mills. To unwind after a day’s labour, workers gathered at night, and this led to informal competitions to cook something spicier and different from everyday meals, Manohar said.These competitions gave rise to non-vegetarian dishes, while separate vegetarian dishes were developed for those who did not eat meat.The Saoji style evolved from these experiments. Manohar said the real character of Saoji food lies in its spice mix of 32 ingredients, with chilli powder roasted slowly in oil giving the gravy its dark colour and deep aroma.The term Saoji is prevalent across Nagpur, Bhandara, Gadchiroli, Wardha, Chandrapur, Amravati and Buldhana. The name gradually became a marker of this cooking tradition, with Saoji cooks traditionally given charge of preparing food in bulk for public functions. Since the cooking was done by men, the style developed a distinct, robust character built on generous use of spice and oil.Some Saoji families were also moneylenders and would host 4,000 to 5,000 guests at weddings. Manohar said that while economic conditions have changed and such scale is no longer common, the tradition of hospitality through food has continued, reflected today in a thinner gravy.Nagpur district is dotted with multiple Saoji outlets, with almost everyone having their distinct signature in terms of taste, texture and presentation.