Sheer dressing is taking on a more structured language. Rather than using transparency as a statement on its own, designers are layering organza, chiffon and other translucent fabrics over solid pieces, tailored silhouettes and contrasting textures. Ajay Jay, a custom designer and stylist, says, “During the SS27 collections, transparency evolved from overt exposure into pure sartorial architecture. What makes layered sheer feel so revolutionary this season is its nuanced execution—designers are using translucent veiling over tailored foundations to filter light, build depth and redefine modern luxury.”
How colour shapes transparency
Across the SS27 collections, designers are using colour to add depth and dimension to transparent layering. “Colour plays a very subtle role when working with transparency because each layer changes the way the colour beneath it is perceived,” says Mrunal Khimji, the label’s founder and creative director. She favours layering different shades of the same colour, describing it as “incredibly elegant” as it creates depth while maintaining “a sense of softness and restraint”.Contrasting colours, however, can create a more defined effect. “A deeper shade beneath a lighter sheer layer, for instance, can create a beautiful dimension and give definition to the silhouette without making the look feel visually heavy,” she explains. Ultimately, colour should enhance “the interplay of light, texture and layers” rather than overpower the delicacy of the fabric.
Building the perfect sheer layer
Tailoring and crisp shirts: Pair translucent fabrics such as organza with tailored pieces and crisp cotton shirts. The contrast between structured tailoring and soft, flowing layers creates a modern take on classic dressingLeather and denim: Balance lightweight, transparent layers with heavier materials such as leather or denim. The contrast adds structure to the look and gives transparency a more contemporary, edgy feelTonal and contrasting colours: Layer translucent panels over tonal or contrasting colours to create depth. The layers allow the colour underneath to show through, adding dimension and movement to the outfit(as suggested by Ajay Jay)“Transparency feels fresh this season because it is being approached with more restraint and attention to construction. Rather than relying on sheer fabrics to make a statement, designers are using them to introduce softness, movement, and dimension. Layering, proportion, and texture give transparency a more sophisticated character” – Mrunal Khimji, creative director and founder of a fashion label